Sleeve construction



l. FREEDMAN SLEEVE CONSTRUCTION IFIeb. 12, 1946.

Filed Deo. 14', 1944 INVENTQR. ,ZI/T0 e/. 776607,@79

rroR/V v Patented Feb. 12, v1946 l UNITED STATES PATENT OFFI 1 2,394,541 SLEEVE CONSTRUCTION Israel L. Freedman, Washington, D. C. Application December 14, 1944, Serial No. 568,170

2 Claims. (Cl. 2-125) i f (Granted under the act of March 3, 1883, as amended April 30, 1928; 370 O. G. 757) The invention described herein, if patented. Referling to thedrawiiig in more detail, the may be manufactured and used by or for the numeral i indicates the body of a garment-such Government for governmental purposes, Without as a coat, blouse, overcoat or the like. rIfhis garthe payment to me of any royalty thereon. ment is provided with armholes 2 of conventional The present invention relates to sleeves for shape and dimensions, and these armholes are coats, overcoats and similar garments, and has for situated in the exact positions as are the armholes its primary object to provide a construction which oi conventional coats, etc. will permit the arm of the wearer to be raised The blanks for producing the novel sleeve are vertically, or substantially so,without placing unindicated by the numerals 3 and 4, the former due strain on the body of the garment such as being the under-sleeve section, and the latter becustoman'ly occurs when the conventional garing the top-sleeve section. The section 4 is proment is worn. vided with the usual rounded, upper-edge portion In order to accomplish this result, it is essential 5 Which forms the shoulder portion of the vconthat the fold or hinge line of the underarm portion ventio'nal sleeve, and is additionally formed with of the sleeve be located closely adjacent the arm l5 an extension or projection 6 extending a substanpit of the wearer of the garment, or, in other tial distance above the upper edge of a normal or Words, at a point substantially higher than the Conventional top-sleeve section. The upper edge point where the ordinary sleeve joins the armhole of this extension 6 is rounded, as indicated by of the body of a garment. numeral l, and joins with the shoulder portion 5 This particular arrangement and location of the to provide an indentation 3. The longitudinal hinge point of the underarm portion of a sleeve edges 9 and lli of this top-sleeve section are has been disclosed in my co-pending application, shaped substantially as those of the conventional Serial No. 531,442 for Sleeve construction; liowtop-sleeve blank. ever, in this prior construction it was necessary The under-sleeve section 3 is provided with the that a dart be provided in the extension of the usual upwardly inclined portion Il on its upper sleeve so as to provide the bias fold necessary to edge, and is additionally formed with an extension prevent sagging of the material *in an unsightly or projection I2 extending a substantial distance mannen above the upper edge of a normal or conventional It is an object of the present invention to so under-sleeve section. The upper edge of the exdesign the upper and underarm sections or blanks 3o tension I2 is rounded, aS indicated by numeral I3, 0f a, twpie sleeve as to provide an extension on and when the sleeve sections are united, it forms the upper end of the underarm section and, at the a Complementary part of the section 6 of the topsame time, provide the equivalent of a dart across sleeve section, as will appear hereinafter. The

the extension, when the sections are stitched tolfmgtudirlal edge I4 0f the under-sleeve section gether to shape the sleeve'to nal form, prepara- 35 3 is substantially the same as that of a conven- 'tory to uniting the same to the conventional armtional under-sleeve section of a two-piece sleeve, hole of the body of a conventional garment. but the shape of its opposite edge I5 departs from Other objects and advantages of the invention that of the usual under sleeve. This edge of the will be in part apparent and in part pointed out sleeve section is cut to provide an obtuse angle in the following description when taken in COrl- 40 I6 having its apex il vat the fold line I8 (Figures nection with the accompanying drawing, in 1 and 3) of the bias fold I9,

which: When the sleeve sections 3 and- 4 are united Figure 1 1S a fragmenlarmperspetlve VIEW 0f a by lines of stitches, as indicated by, the numeral garment with anovel sleeve incorporated therein, 2g the angular edge E H out in the under parts being broken away to more clearly disclose the details of construction.

Figure 2 is a fragmentary, front elevational View sleeve section 3, produces a dart 2l, or the equivalent thereof, in the combined projections 6 and I 2 and thus provides for the formation of the bias of th arment with the arm or sleeve raised snghty gabove the horizontal so as to depict the fold I9, when the. sleeve is stitched to the lower operation of the bias fold in actual use edge of a conventional armhole by the combined Figure 3 is a fragmentary perspective View of rounded edges l and I3 which conform to the the upper end of the completed sleeve prior to its lower edge 0f the mmh-01ejncorporatjon into the garment, and, The Curved and dotted line 22, Figure 3, indi- Figure 4 is a plan view of the two sections or cates the upper edge of a normal, under-sleeve blanks forming the sleeve. section and, thus, it also indicates the terminal of that part of the bias fold which lies Within the sleeve proper.

As will be obvious to those skilled in the art, the fold'lQ extending above the normal armhole (Figure l) of the garment brings the pivot of the sleeve substantially closer to the arm pit of the wearer and thus reduces to a great extent the tendency to pull the body of the garment upwardly when the arm is raised. 'Moreoven by forming the fold of bias-cut material and the dart 2l, the fold i9 is caused to retain its shape and its upwardly extending position, thereby eliminating the necessity of employing rubber bands or other extraneous material for this purpose. Andagain, by providing the notch l-H in one of the edges forming the under-sleeve seam, at least two operations are eliminated; namely, the operation of cutting an entirely sep'-y arate dart in the under-sleeve section, and the operation of separately stitching the edges of the dart when the sleeve is being formed, as are required in the sleeve construction disclosed in my .co-pending application, above referred to.

In accordance With thepatent statutes, I have described what I now believe to be the preferred embodiment of the invention, but the present disclosure is to be construed as illustrative of the invention rather than in any limiting sense.

What is claimed is:

1. A garment sleeve comprising an undersleeve section and a top-sleeve section, an extension l vformed on the upper edge of each section at the longitudinal edges forming jthe under seam of the sleeve, said longitudinal edge of the under `Vsleeve section being inout to form an obtuse angle having its apex at the side of the undersleeve extension, the adjacent edge of the top-V 1 sleevey section being substantially straight.

2. A ,garment sleeve comprising an undersleeve section and a top-sleeve section, an extension formed on the upper edge of each section at the longitudinal edges forming the under seam [of the sleeve, the longitudinal edge of one of said sections being incut to form an obtuse angle having its apex adjacent the extension vofy the respective sleeve section, and the vadjacent edge `of the other sleeve section being substantially straight.

' ISRAEL L. vFREEDMAN. 

